How to Choose the Right Soy Sauce for Japanese Cuisine

Let's talk about soy sauce. Soy sauce is one of the quintessential ingredients in Japanese cuisine. While many foreigners visiting Korea often detect the garlic aroma, those traveling to Japan encounter the soy sauce fragrance. For those unfamiliar with Japanese cuisine, it can be challenging to come across a Japanese dish that doesn't incorporate soy sauce as a condiment or ingredient. Even professionals in the Japanese food industry might struggle to find dishes that deviate from this norm, with only a few exceptions.

Japan is the birthplace of mass-produced soy sauce and is home to some of the largest and most renowned soy sauce companies. Among them, Kikkoman and Yamasa stand out. Americans can readily find their products not only in Asian markets but also in local American markets. Especially noteworthy is the availability of Kikkoman products, which are sold at Costco. The majority of soy sauce items from Kikkoman and Yamasa in the U.S. are domestically produced, with these companies striving to emulate a production environment similar to that of Japan. For instance, their U.S. factories are strategically situated in locations like Oregon or Washington to ensure the vital ingredient of high-quality, soft water. It's important to mention that most countries worldwide predominantly have hard water. Countries with an ample supply of clean and soft water, such as Japan, are quite rare.

Three key factors to distinguish soy sauces apart from color are taste, aroma, and umami. Makers pursue different flavor balances: emphasizing aroma often results in a relatively subdued taste, while a stronger taste often corresponds to a relatively subdued aroma. For example, Kikkoman leans towards a robust taste, while Yamasa boasts a pronounced aroma. Furthermore, one method of assessing umami involves gauging how sensitively taste buds react when consuming food. Though it might sound vague, this can be experienced by trying a small amount of MSG, which heightens this sensation. Even a minimal amount of MSG triggers a swift response in the mouth, leading to a burst of saliva. However, evaluating this aspect can be challenging. After experiencing the umami taste, the ability to perceive new umami sensations might diminish when consuming subsequent dishes. In such situations, it can be difficult to comparatively evaluate umami, which is why the Total Nitrogen (TN) index is used. Nevertheless, I want to warn the readers that the TN index isn't always the sole determining factor.

To enjoy food, I emphasize the importance of trusting one's palate over others' opinions or objective measures. Focusing solely on measurements based on indices can result in a loss of subjectivity, whereas I firmly believe that true deliciousness originates from personal experiences. Apart from my opinion, the TN index, which stands for Total Nitrogen index, holds significant value for categorization [Standard (1.20), Premium (1.35), Special Grade (1.50), Extra Special Grade (1.65), Super Premium (1.80 and above)]; the higher the index value, the more umami content of the product. As a reference, Yamasa and Kikkoman in the United States are classified as Special Grade, at 1.50 and above, and for Yamasa Tamari soy sauce, it exceeds 2.0. Korean and Chinese brewed soy sauces typically exhibit lower TN index values.

My goal in this article is to guide readers in choosing the right soy sauces by considering specific factors. Having understood the importance of taste, aroma, and umami when assessing soy sauce quality, the next step is to contemplate the type of food in preference. Generally, for dishes that are fish-based or sushi, which might have a strong smell, soy sauce with a pronounced aroma like Yamasa would be favored. This type of soy sauce can help mask the fishy odor and simultaneously enhance the flavor. Conversely, for dishes like fried foods or steaks, where odor isn't a concern and cooks aim to preserve the natural aroma of the food, soy sauce with a strong taste like Kikkoman would be preferred. This type of soy sauce can contribute to umami, provide a rich salty taste, and add a hint of sweetness to the food. While this article primarily compared Kikkoman and Yamasa soy sauces, brands like Sempio from Korea and Lee Kum Kee from Hong Kong also produce excellent soy sauces. Although the TN index was mentioned earlier, what's truly crucial is the inherent balance of the soy sauce. Soy sauce is not an expensive product. I recommend trying various types of soy sauce when preparing your favorite dishes and comparing them to discover your preference.